My life, as many others like myself, revolves around the ocean. Surfing is pure, it’s powerful,
and it’s freedom. The energy and friendships that come from the sea is truly indescribable.
Surfing is part of who I am, and will forever be at the forefront of my life.
This past summer, Southern California was far from great, in fact it was one of the worst in
years. October rolled around, and as if a switch was flipped the ocean produced a series of
swells that rattled the coastline and brought joy to those who spend their time in the water.
This past weekend was unlike anything I’d seen in California, combo swell from the North and
South filled in and it was game on. Beach breaks came to life, everyone was getting shacked as
if California turned to Indonesia. Perfection came in the form of a-frames that littered the shores
Oceanside and Carlsbad. Offshore winds threw salt water spray off the back of waves that rolled
with a power only those in the water know.
Those who live for thrill came from all around and spread out among the many sandbars,
although it was crowded myself and a few friends found a peak all to ourselves. Wave after
wave we simultaneously traded off barrels that spit would spit saltwater for yards. We surfed
until our bodies no longer allowed.
Conversation of hollow dark pits would fill the air, happiness was felt by everyone. A happiness
that can only be created from a passion that brings so many together. The Pacific had awoken,
and brought to life those who desire a life driven by the sea.