When the first swells of winter hit the French coast, we met Adrien Toyon around Biarritz to see how the banks were working. With the tide and waves getting better, he took us to a lonely left he had been surfing lately.
He opened his car trunk and waxed an old 5’10” Lighting Bolt twin shaped by Graham Smith.
“That was my first ever surfboard. When I was 9 years old, my parents gave me for Christmas, almost 20 years ago. I found it again in my parents house in Reunion Islands and I brought it here. Then it spent some long time in my garage looking at me hahaha…That single concave and sharp lines were perfect on this day. Never thought I was going to surf this board again, and even more in this kind of waves.”
Waves were firing and, as Adrien’s surfing can demonstrate, board choice was on point.
Because summer means summer waves & crowds, we decided to ride up North to find a calm spot where to spend the week-end. Good friends, good waves, none else in the water, perfect weather ultimately lead to good vibes. That’s the only way to sum-up this great moment.
Facebook, Whatsapp, Instagram, Twitter, Whatsapp again... More and more it is more difficult to isolate ourselves, to escape from everything, to enjoy the silence. Silence… we are stupid enough so as to invent words that describe things that do not even exist!
I glance down at my watch, it reads just after 9am. Over the top of my coffee, I scour the ocean, It’s a wild and bumpy canvas layered with mood. There’s only going to be one decent spot on a day like today I think aloud.