One day, one session !
I had just one session to make this film, it's often hard in Brittany to find the good wave, because of storm, wind, swell direction. But there is always a solution. After 3 days of bumpy waves and 2 hours of driving, Gwen Cristien find a little wave to put his famous drop knee turn. He is one of Brittany's longboard pioneer where he born and lives. Younger he tried competition, but one day Takuji Masuda told to him "You have a good style but not for competition", now he develops boards design with Brittany shaper Marc Billion from ATAO and share his knowledge by doing conferences with Patagonia or in surf exhibitions.
Because summer means summer waves & crowds, we decided to ride up North to find a calm spot where to spend the week-end. Good friends, good waves, none else in the water, perfect weather ultimately lead to good vibes. That’s the only way to sum-up this great moment.
Facebook, Whatsapp, Instagram, Twitter, Whatsapp again... More and more it is more difficult to isolate ourselves, to escape from everything, to enjoy the silence. Silence… we are stupid enough so as to invent words that describe things that do not even exist!
I glance down at my watch, it reads just after 9am. Over the top of my coffee, I scour the ocean, It’s a wild and bumpy canvas layered with mood. There’s only going to be one decent spot on a day like today I think aloud.