MAGICAL LINES
Two flights from Bali have you descending into the back streets of Padang, Indonesia. The gateway to the Mentawais. A place I have become familiar with over the years.
Stepping out onto the docks of Padang harbour, the smell of gasoline and oil hit you like a ton of bricks. Packed with nothing but camera gear and a few pairs of shorts, I hop onto the Pelagic. One of the most extravagant surf char- ters I’ve ever seen. This was late, 11pm to be exact, and the boat was due to leave much earlier. I had been called up after a late cancelation to come and shoot for 10 days — that call was at 3pm the same afternoon. There was no time for hesitation in booking these tickets.
The cross between Padang and the Ments is a treacherous stretch of sea, 11 hours in any conditions make you wonder about home and the comforts of your current surroundings. Once the anchor drops, you look through the porthole at some crispy morning light shining through the palms. The thoughts of home dissipate and you start itching to jump overboard.
Breakfast each morning consisted of fresh fruit and views of empty peelers, boards were waxed and fine-tuned by 7.30am and the boys were into it, often the only ones for miles. You would only come in for a re-touch of the suns- creen, or maybe a cheeky Bintang and some finely cut sashimi before doing it all again into the early evening.
Fireworks were a treat most nights, lighting up the night’s sky and burning across the horizon. Late nights on the beers never called for a sleep in, you’d be up regardless. Ten days in a place like this is a rarity and you can never take it for granted.
The waves that we were lucky enough to be in the presence of were mind blowing, twisting and bending as they crack along the reef. Empty or rid- den, magical lines and wispy sections. As I swam through clear untouched lineups, I would notice veins of the reef, fish swimming under the thunde- rous white water oblivious to the action above.
Mentawais, you are utterly beautiful and incredibly attractive, I cannot wait until we meet again.
