Right now as I’m writing this, got a cold tin in hand, one eye on the beach and it’s pretty freaking neato.
For the past month, since the beginning of summer really, the sand at this bank has been proper bullshit, spent a huge amount of time surfing it, documenting little and enjoying a lot.
Spent the afternoon on a slight onshore day sinking even more tins, cutting hot laps through the rip and finding some shade amongst the chaos.
Here’s some of my favourite frames from the past month or so.
For where it is, I’ll never tell!
I glance down at my watch, it reads just after 9am. Over the top of my coffee, I scour the ocean, It’s a wild and bumpy canvas layered with mood. There’s only going to be one decent spot on a day like today I think aloud.
Just after the Wheels and Waves, we met with Nathan Sadoun to discuss present, future and surfing. Nathan is a great human being. Always smiling, always stoked when there is a shitty wave to surf and always the first when it comes to have a couple of beers. Congrats on winning the event log contest. See you around Nathan!
Nothing beats a morning sesh with friends. When the wind is still light and offshore, when most of the people are still sleeping, when waves are breaking with none spoiling their beauty. That’s he best moment of the day. And that’s the moment Leila Hurst and Karina Ronzuko chose to ride the sand bank.
'Thank You Mother' is a cinematic journey of surfing, simplicity and appreciation. It is a film that isn't afraid to be beautiful, stylish and sincere. Produced by Torren Martyn and Ishka Folkwell with an original soundtrack by Nick Bampton. 'Thank You Mother' is narrated by award winning Australian film maker and life long simplist Albert Falzon, who made the seminal 1970 surf film 'Morning of the Earth'.
Neil Messmer is a young talented longboarder. Sharing his time between France and California, Neil has developed a unique style on boards over 9ft. Neil is part of this generation of kids who are more interested in riding longboard with elegance than destroying a wave on a thruster.