TACOS & SURF
This past February, I went to visit my home town in Baja California, Mexico for a month to catch up with my family, friends, tacos and of course the surf! Was awesome to see everyone back again and enjoy my time there in my home.
Every morning I woke up between 3am and 4am because the jet lag I had from my time zone in Europe, so I got up really early and fresh then straight to heat water for coffee, small chat with my grandpa and head out to check the waves out front the house.
First weekend I was there waves were on fire!! Huge swell and really strong offshore winds, only thing that kinda sucked was the sand bars on the bottom of the waves, the beach didn’t had sand so waves were breaking really far out and water crashing on the street literally. The last “el niño” storms kinda moved the sand everywhere and its not fixed yet.
First friday of the trip was the biggest day and already at down they were a couple guys out doing some step off’s from the jet ski, they were scoring epic big barrels none stop. Was kinda big and “scary” to paddle “1 kilometer” away to get the shot front row, so I went back home got my housing and just paddle out there to try to score an epic barrel shot from the guys on jet ski but I just couldn’t link up with them, I had my fish eye and it was to far to get a close shot. I was just swimming there not scoring anything so I went in after just burning my self out.
Next couple days swell went smaller but still epic. The rest of the time I was there wasn’t that good, crappy winds and weird swell directions.
Anyways it was still fun to be home and recharge with the positive energy of my loved ones and im looking forward for next time already.