THE WHITE WHALE
“There’s always that one wave that bears fear into a photographers mind. A place that you’ve always been in awe of shooting from the water but never really taken that leap.
Not far from home, lies a right meaty slab that breaks on ever increasing dry reef. It’s been surfed before, I’ve seen great things happen out there but it’s been an eerie place that’s unforgiving and has even taken men from it’s cliffs. Never to be seen again.
Being off my radar for quite some time. It recently popped up again after my good friend Grant conjured up the idea to paddle it solo. Of course I was all in. It had been years since I’d showed any interest in the place. Our first session was, well unsuccessful with Grant copping one to many beatings resulting in our tails between our legs.
Leaving for Indo within a week, my winter at home over. I thought that was it and I would have to wait a while to get it on again! Until 5 days later, the swell kicked into something a touch bigger than we saw. With Grant more eager than ever, we tackled it again with some trusty friends. Hell it wasn’t as mean as we wanted but man, it made us feel alive.
Until next time, my white whale.”
Almost nine million years ago, the earth split open in the middle of the Atlantic and the resulting wound spouted the blood and the fire that created the Azores islands.
Far from everything, the Azores turned their back on time and witnessed how the rain and the salt colored their black lava green with vegetation and life. And it has maintained its quiet essence, adrift at sea, isolated from a loveless world, safeguarding its sublime purity from an extinct era.
Facebook, Whatsapp, Instagram, Twitter, Whatsapp again... More and more it is more difficult to isolate ourselves, to escape from everything, to enjoy the silence. Silence… we are stupid enough so as to invent words that describe things that do not even exist!
In January 2019, snowboarder Mathieu Crepel and surfer Damien Castera, joined by photographer Greg Rabejac and lmmaker Pierre Frechou, traveled to the very northern tip of Norway for a boardriding expedition in the heart of the Arctic winter. In between snowy peaks and icy waves, they went deep into the polar night where solar winds meet Earth’s magnetic eld to create the fairy dance of the Aurora Borealis.
'Thank You Mother' is a cinematic journey of surfing, simplicity and appreciation. It is a film that isn't afraid to be beautiful, stylish and sincere. Produced by Torren Martyn and Ishka Folkwell with an original soundtrack by Nick Bampton. 'Thank You Mother' is narrated by award winning Australian film maker and life long simplist Albert Falzon, who made the seminal 1970 surf film 'Morning of the Earth'.